Wolaver's Alta Gracia Coffee Porter
A theory: many beer drinkers don’t like the taste of beer. A similar theory: many coffee drinkers don’t like the taste of coffee.
Let me explain, before I’m labeled a beer and coffee snob. Both beer and coffee contain very strong, unique tastes that — for most people — must be acquired. I know of no one who has fallen in love with beer after first sip, nor do I know of anyone who has yelled out “Eureka!” after trying their first taste of black coffee. No, instead I think people ween themselves on to each libation. Many beer drinkers start out drinking any of the light lagers from the “big three,” which are brewed with adjunct grains (think corn and rice) that greatly diminish the flavor, yet aid in “drinkability” (stop me if you’ve heard that term somewhere before). Coffee drinkers, similarly, choose to dilute the taste of coffee with countless creams and sugars. We like coffee — provided there’s not too much coffee flavor overpowering the sugary, milky goodness.
I’ve seen these two tastes meet in many beers that tout themselves as “coffee beers,” yet leave true fans of coffee wanting. My most recent experience involved the Kona Pipeline Porter. I had heard great things about this beer and, being a fan of Kona coffee, thought I had found what might be a new favorite. And don’t get me wrong — this was a very smooth and enjoyable beer, but I was left wondering where all that coffee flavor was. I could taste the coffee, sure, but it was very subtle and tasted more of coffee with half-and-half than a nice roasted flavor. Nevertheless, this is a good porter, and I might have been pleasantly surprised had they not labeled it as a coffee porter.
I expected more subdued coffee tastes when I picked up Wolaver’s Alta Gracia Coffee Porter, which is an organic beer that uses organic vanilla beans and coffee from Alta Gracia, a small farm in the Dominican Republic. The addition of the vanilla beans especially led me to believe I was in for another sweet coffee beer. The aroma of this beer, however, told me otherwise. This beer has more of a coffee aroma than many stouts, and certainly any coffee porter I’ve had. The taste in many ways is not unlike a stout — it has a distinct espresso quality, with virtually no hop bitterness. There is a wonderful roastiness to this porter that, again, I’ve only experienced in stouts. But with little hop bitterness and a nice medium body, this is a well-balanced beer that is easy-drinking without compromising its coffee characteristic.
The Wolaver’s Alta Gracia Coffee Porter (brewed by Otter Creek) and the Kona Pipeline Porter share the same B+ rating on Beer Advocate, but I can’t help but think that the Alta Gracia Coffee Porter would win out if it were as heavily distributed as the Kona.
Or perhaps I’m being a bit more of a coffee snob than a beer snob today — how do you guys take your coffee, and do you find any similarities in the coffee beers you enjoy?
I am not a big coffee drinker. I used to be but haven’t had much lately. I’ve been getting into tea more than anything else. But when I do drink coffee or tea. I only add just a bit of sweetener or I just drink it straight.
As far as coffee beers, the most interesting one I have tried lately was Peak’s Organic Espresso Amber. The caramel flavors from the malt profile create sort of a caramel machiato type of a drink. The espresso is there, and for me the flavors harmonize one another rather than accentuate as in most coffee porters and stouts. After reading your post, you probably would not like it.
Hey Tim,
The Peak’s beer actually sounds really good, and I think I would like it. As I said, I did enjoy the Kona Pipeline Porter, but I went into it expecting a more pronounced coffee taste (which I later found in the Wolaver’s). I do drink most of my coffee black, but I really enjoy a lot of the drinks my wife gets at Starbucks, which are loaded down with sugars and whipped cream until you can barely taste the coffee. I guess it’s just a matter of expectations.
I’ll look for the Peak’s — it really does sound good. As for tea, I have enjoyed the very few hot teas I’ve had, but I find they always leave me jittery (not sure why — coffee contains more caffeine, right?).
Thanks for reading,
Daniel
Coffee does contain more caffeine in general, but depending on the tea leaves and how long you steep, you can get nearly just as much if not more than a weak cup of coffee.
I make the coffee/beer comparison to my friends all the time. Coincidentally, I started drinking black coffee around the same time I started appreciating good beer.
Now that you mention it, Sam, I’m the same way. It’s a progression — especially in terms of tolerating and then appreciating the bitterness.
I really enjoyed both the Pipeline and the Wolaver’s. For me the Kona beers are harder to find (if at all!) but the Wolaver’s is readily accessible and it does the trick. Personally, I could live on beer and coffee, so combining them makes my life easier!
I hear you, Scott! I have a cup (or two) of coffee every morning, and a glass (or two) of beer a night. In between those are about 90 ounces of water to keep me somewhat healthy.
A local place now has Great Divide’s Espresso Oak Aged Yeti on tap — I’m thinking about picking up a growler of it.
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